Sharing some cross-border wine tourism news.

The annual Annual Guateque del Vino Artesanal wine event is held each year in Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico – Located south of San Diego and Tijuana, and north of Ensenada (Map and directions at end of this post).

Of course this comes with the usual full State Department Safety Disclaimer/Caveat. In layman’s terms – remember   Mexico continues to experience crime and security problems relating to the drug trade – so balance your risks and make your personal and family choices. Also remember US citizens check their Bill of Rights at the border.  Sad that legitimate cross-border wine tourism has safety concerns…

On a happier note – for luxury wine-themed view lodging on the U.S. side of the border – Please visit us at Eagles Nest Winery’s Vacation Villa

Food and Wine Fiesta Season Underway in Baja California

‘Vino-Tourism’ by Steve Dryden Monday, June 29, 2009

The annual Guateque del Vino Artesanal wine event is probably the most enthusiastic and “down to earth” wine country event held each year in Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico. The focus is on emerging winemakers, beginners, artisans, home-brewers, small operations and intermediate-level producers.

This year’s event was enhanced with the use of the new multi-use activity center generously provided by Viña de Liceaga, in San Antonio de las Minas. The overall event planning was brilliantly orchestrated by Leonardo Lizárraga and friends. It is remarkable to note that these events continue to advance and improve vastly with each season. The food venues, ticket sales, parking, sanitation, stage, live music, dancing area, gazebos, security, and table settings made for a fun, family-oriented event. One obvious element was that you could really feel the “enthusiasm and spirit” as you approached the grounds, filled with a diverse mix of people, micro-brewed beers, regional culinary delights and newly produced wines.

Two interesting features this year were a nice presentation of regional micro-brewed beers (cervezas), and an abundance of Zinfandel wine. Labricha Cerveza Artesanal had an excellent table presentation with a fine selection of handcrafted beer, staffed with knowledgeable personnel. Their Monasterio Stout is smooth, full-bodied, with hints of coffee and smoke flavors that would pair-up nicely with oven-baked lamb and many mole dishes. In addition, they make palate-pleasing light honey ale, bright golden in color, clean, refreshing, with floral aromas, ending with a smooth finish with a hint of ginger. I’d love to match this brew with carne asada, or shrimp in coconut milk sauce. Alvaro Alvarez and Hortensia Riesgo, brew-master and winemaker, have been focused on creating premium-handcrafted beer in Ensenada since 1992.

Zinfandel seems to be a “rising star” among the artisan winemaking movement. One reason for the presence of Zinfandel, is that there was a small surplus left over last season that made its way to the artisans and smaller producers who purchase grapes from growers.

Pau Pijoan, of Viñas Pijoan, empowered one of his beautiful daughters and her friends to pour his Mare, a 100% Zinfandel that was a “stand-out” (the wine) at this event.

Another notable Zinfandel poured is being produced by Agosto. This 2008 Zinfandel is a team effort by Laura Chanes, Monica Chanes, Gloria Guisa and Juan Antonio Fernandez. Laura Chanes was a fellow graduate of mine at the “world renowned” La Escuelita, the artisan winemaking school in El Porvenir, Valle de Guadalupe. She is one of many women in Mexico who are taking part in our emerging wine industry with great results and progress.  A 2007 Zinfandel from Serena is another prime example of the potential of Zinfandel in the region.

Word-of-mouth evaluation from guests seemed to favor a dynamic wine from Encino, a 2007 Tempranillo, aged 12 months in new oak, made from 30 year-old vines from San Vicente.  Several emails received after the event indicated that many folks loved the wines of Alximia, created by Alvaro Alvarez Parrilla. Others mentioned the wine of Albert Cruz, of El Parral Hotel and Viñdeo, and several commented on all the wines from the Tres Mujeres Winery. Many wine lovers were also impressed with the wines from Jay Dworsky and his business partner Charles.

One winery I discovered, while enjoying their wine and enthusiasm, was Utopia, operated by Dr. Joel Velasco and his business partner. Their wine is actually made in the basement of a hospital in Ensenada, so it’s sure to be created in the most sanitary environment and with surgical precision. Their wines are very good. These two winemakers are very typical of the Mexican and American winemakers in this region that have recently embraced the world of making wine. They are mellow in nature, but intensely focused on creating premium wine in Mexico, using handcrafted, limited production styles. You can feel this excitement and pride in the air as you speak with them and taste their wine. For them, it’s almost like introducing the world to your first newborn child, when you showcase your newest wines to the public. 2007 Utopia is a magical blend of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Their current production is limited to three American oak barrels of wine, using grapes from Valle de Guadalupe.

Two American winemakers, new to the Mexican wine culture, Jay Dworsky and Charles, introduced their first vintage of Petit Verdot and a superb blend of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, both aged in new Minnesota Nadalie oak barrels. According to Jay, “It has been a labor of love and the experience has been very fulfilling for both Charles and me.”

Another winemaking couple based in San Diego was invited because their winery shares the same name of the event, Guateque. They create one barrel of handcrafted wine each year, and they poured generous samples of a delightful 2007 Syrah and 2005 Pinot Noir. Currently there are ten US citizens making wine in Mexico.

When you put this wine event into proper perspective, acknowledging that these dedicated, artisan and smaller producers, with limited resources and training, are making a diverse mixture of drinkable wines, it’s very impressive. Indeed, some of the winemakers from this event and local winemaking schools have moved up the chain and are now known nationally for their artisan and boutique wines.

In reality, Mexico’s wine industry is still emerging in quality and production, but it is an exciting time as the industry evolves. Due to the low production of wine, and with a growing national market for regional wine, many artisan winemakers are having success in selling their products. Handcrafted wines have the advantage of bringing the consumer the “bottled spirit and passion” of the individual winemakers, and their intimate relationship to the vines and land. As we grow and gain experience with our craft, we offer great value for the quality, and a personal expression in the art of making small quantities of wine.

Several regional food venues were also present with an abundance of gourmet delights for this event, including Capricho’s and Casa Plasencia.  There was Tres Misiones Cheese and Olive Oil, and Cafe Tomas, Bodegas del Arte and Hogaza pastries.

Overall, the event organizers artfully blended a combination of wine, cerveza, food, music, dancing and good times into a successful day in Mexico’s premium wine country.

Thankfully, Viña de Liceaga came through again as a gracious host for this event. Serious wine and food lovers, please note that as of July 1st Saverios Restaurant (one of the best in the region) will be setting up their summer tent galley as Asador Campestre, at Liceaga Winery in San Antonio de las Minas. They’ll be open Tuesdays through Sundays from noon until 10 p.m.

For those winemakers and wineries I didn’t mention in this article, don’t worry, I’ll be featuring several artisan operations in upcoming articles.  Please contact me if you want further coverage of your wines and your passion for the art.

Also see Fiestas de la Vendimia 2009 Schedule – Mexico’s Annual Wine Festival, by Steve Dryden

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Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in northwestern Baja California, in the heart of Mexico’s premier wine country, where he also guides individual and small group wine tours and books lodging.

Location and Driving Directions: Valle de Guadalupe is home to over twenty wineries, several restaurants and affordable lodging.  The Mexican wine country is located about seventy miles south of the border or about a two hour drive from San Diego.  From Casa Alexssa (Bajamar) take the toll road south to Ensenada and before reaching Ensenada you’ll come to the third toll station at Playa San Miguel. As you pay your toll and continue south for about 1.5 miles, look for a sign reading Tecate Highway 3 or  “Ruta del Vino”(Wine Route).   Exit to the right onto Highway 3 and drive up and over the foothills for seven miles until you drop down into the wine country at San Antonio de las Minas.