Have you visited the laid back Lodi Wine Country? That’s where we stayed in the Wine & Roses Inn and Spa post and videos on our way to the Unified Wine and Grape Symposium (UWGS)…
We love Lodi for a relaxing wine experience you can’t get at the “Wine Disney” destinations in Napa or Sonoma… and none of that clogged two-lane highway traffic headed to/from Napa/Sonoma.
Did you know that Lodi has 750 wineries which is 250 more than Napa and Sonoma combined?!?!
Lodi, is about one hundred miles east of San Francisco. Lodi vineyards began in 1850′s about the same time as Napa and Sonoma. Lodi’s inland climate is drier and warmer than the coastal regions and the soil conditions and weather are conducive to growing grapes like Tokay and Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet.
Another little known fact — the Lodi region grows greater quantities of the top five premium wine varietals than any other region in the state producing 20% of California’s total production which is more than the combined efforts of Sonoma County and Napa County!!!
Visit us at http://eaglesnestwinery.com Click here!
Lodi, The Quiet Napa
February 23, 7:22 PM
by Christopher Davies, Denver Getaways Examiner, Story and photographs by Christopher J. Davies
Delicato’s Clay Station Vineyards
So here I am, kick’n back in The Club Lounge of the Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco.
Some have referred to this exclusive, upper level “club” as a “hotel within a hotel”. This is where select hotel guests get to enjoy extra pampering, five different food presentations daily and complimentary premium beverages.
It’s 4 pm and I am savoring a delicious selection of nine artisan cheeses, gourmet nuts and a medium-bodied “cult” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Thanks to Angela Jackson the Director of Publicity at the hotel, I am getting to live the life of a celebrity for the day.
As I gaze out the window taking in a spectacular view of San Francisco Bay, the elevator door opens and out strolls a distinguished Japanese executive impeccably dressed in Polo™ wear, with his entourage of female assistants in tow. “ Mr. Yamaguchi, let’s go over your “shed-yule” exclaims his British accented assistant. “Ok” he answered.
“On Friday, you are booked for Golf at 9:00 AM, your Executive Meeting is at 2:00PM, you fly to Monterey for your dinner meeting and return by 10pm”. She declared.
“Good” he remarked.
“On Saturday, the driver will pick you up in the lobby at 9 am sharp for your tour of NAPA Wine Country”. She explained.
“Why so early? Can’t I leave latter?”
“Mr. Yamagughi, I do not recommend leaving any later. It’s about 80 miles to NAPA and Saturday traffic is very bad. You know that they are getting almost as many tourists as Disneyland ®! And if you want to barrel taste with the winemaker at Hess Estates, you will need to allocate several hours for doing so”. She said.
Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco
I am sipping my “cult” cab, comfortably reclined in a plush leather chair, listening to their conversation as if I am “a fly on the wall”. I am thinking about my planned wine tasting journey that will equal almost the same mileage as Mr. Yamaguchi’s. I will be heading in slightly different direction…due east. I will be heading to Lodi, the quiet Napa!
Deluxe Beverage Service at The Ritz-Carlton
LODI WINE COUNTRY
Lodi’s grape grow genealogy dates back to 1850, when Charles Weber, the founder of Stockton was the first to plant grapes near his home. A few years later, a Massachusetts man named George West, who first came to California to reap his fortune during the Gold Rush, planted the regions first commercial vineyard, and built El Pinal Winery.
In the beginning, just as with any new wine region, a lot of experimentation took place. A number of varietals did well in Lodi’s Mediterranean climate. But Zinfandel and Tokay stood out is the best growers. The Tokay was a hearty grape that held up well during the long rail trips to eastern markets. And after the turn of the century when shipping companies emerged. Lodi’s vineyards prospered. During prohibition while many vineyards and wineries closed around the country, home winemaking was permitted under the Volstead Act; this helped make many Lodi grape growers prosper.
The Lodi Wine region is located 100 miles east of San Francisco near the San Joaquin River Delta, about 35 miles south of Sacramento and west of Sierra Nevada. Most people will be surprised to learn that today, Lodi leads all other California wine districts in the production of the top five premium wine varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel.
The Lodi region’s annual production of grapes is a whopping 600,000 tons, valued at over $300 million BEFORE being turned into wine. Lodi’s production comprises of 18% of California’s total winegrape production, which is MORE than Napa and Sonoma combined!
Why don’t more people know these facts? Probably because the grape growers are also residents of Lodi. Just like Seattlens would like you to believe it rains all the time, Lodi folk like Lodi just the way it is now.
The biggest difference between Lodi and Napa is that Lodi lacks the commercialism and glitz of Napa Valley’s destination wineries. It also lacks the pricey tasting fees being charged by the famous wineries up north.
Lodi’s largest winery and one of the nations biggest producers of wine, Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi is located off the beaten path in adjacent Woodbridge. The property consists of a large factory compound of cement buildings. Its tasting room and gift shop are surprisingly small and plain. And while most American’s are familiar with Woodbridge’s popular magnums of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay…visitors to Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi are treated to limited-production specialty wines that Senior Winemaker David Akiyoshi passionately loves to create. Some of these treasures are only available at the tasting room: Portacinco a port style wine made from Portuguese varieties, Olde Vine Zinfandel, Barbera and Muscat. Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi buys most of its grapes from local growers. The winery enjoys a terrific relationship with growers, and established its Quality Enhancement Teams with their Lodi appellation partners to ensure that only the finest fruit goes into making Woodbridge wines.
Oak Barrels are still used at Woodbridge Winery
Mondavi Woodbridge produces over seven million magnum bottle cases of wine annually. Of big surprise to me was the fact that all of these wines are barrel aged in American & French oak. And that the winery cellars up to 60,000 oak barrels at a time!
Traveling to Lodi is like taking a time warp to a homey farm community that can be more closely compared to Mayberry than to Napa or Sonoma. Everyone knows each other and takes pride in their community. While Lodi resembles a small town it is a real incorporated city with a population of approximately 60,000 residents, according to the latest census figures. While most of the 750 grape growers sell their grapes to large wineries such as Mondavi, Turner Road Vintners, Sutter Home, EJ Gallo and Beringer, several dozen smaller boutique wineries are taking root. This has created a laid back wine route for wine aficionados seeking adventure.
Renae Matson, co-owner of Vino Con Brio Winery comments “We have been seeing a steady increase of wine tourism each year. Our biggest obstacle is that people don’t realize what we do here. They are not aware that we produce high quality wine”.
While touring and tasting at Lodi’s wineries may take you through some rural areas, it is rewarding to meet the people responsible for turning the juice into wine. You might even get to see one of the Olde Vine Zinfandel plants, like the gnarly 150 year-old vine knick named “Yoda” at Jessie’s Grove Vineyards.
Dave Phillips, Co-Owner Michael David Vineyards
One of the most unique experiences I have enjoyed was visiting Michael David Vineyards roadside cafe/ fruit stand and tasting room, just on the edge of town on Highway 12, near Highway 5. Brothers Michael and David Phillips are fifth generation grape growers. With over 350 acres of planted vines, they run one of the largest family-run wineries in the area. Don’t let their farm stand appearance fool you. Michael David Vineyard’s produces a luscious selection of award winning wines. They are brilliant marketers with highly attractive wine label designs and branding. Their wines include: 7 Deadly Zins, Incognito, Zinphony and Earth Quake Syrah, to name a few!
Two notable Lodi gems worth visiting, admittedly do not source all of their fruit from Lodi. Jewel Collection Fine Wines is a medium sized winery by California standards that focuses on producing varietally correct, premium quality wines at an attractive $8 to $14 price point. St. Amant Winery, a family-owned boutique operation that focuses on warm weather varietals like Barbera, Tempanillo, Zinfandel and Verdelho.
For those who do not have a lot of time to visit wineries, the Discover Lodi Wine Center is a must visit destination. It is run by the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission, which is an organization funded by Lodi’s grape growers. The center has a spacious tasting bar featuring a wide selection of regional wines, interactive and educational exhibits on grape growing and winemaking, and a gift shop featuring handcrafted products and wine sales.
The center stocks over 100 wines for tasting and sale. The tasting bar offers a selection of nine different wines daily, rotating the selection every day.
The Lodi Wine Grape Commission has been instrumental for spearheading the industries continued growth and focus on quality. Their latest initiative is setting standards for the regions Certified Sustainable winegrape label. This is a “green” program that raises the bar and sets standards for Sustainable Agriculture…which in simple terms means replacing pesticides with a more organic solution. Lodi is taking this issue quite seriously. Consumers will soon see special labels indicating that a producer has met the qualifications.
Just next-door, The Wine and Roses Hotel and Restaurant offers comfortable lodging and dining in a serene setting amongst towering trees and botanical gardens. The restaurant features a selection of Lodi wines to enhance ones dining experience. The adjacent bar is a local favorite with a piano player entertaining guests in the evening. The hotel rooms are modern and offered in various configurations and suites, catering to business people as well as tourists and wedding parties.
A recent wine country addition is the lovely Amorosa Inn and Gardens, which is located on a twenty-acre vineyard estate. The property features an elegantly appointed B&B with four different-themed rooms overlooking a pastoral pond, as well as an event center and weekend tasting room for Vino Con Brio winery. Only open for a year, the Amorosa which means “loving” in Italian, has been gaining popularity with guests from the Central Bay, San Francisco Bay and as far away as Germany, thanks to the Internet!
Downtown Lodi has several big draws. This is one of the rare, remaining real downtowns where you can park your car and stroll the sidewalk visiting small retail shops, restaurants and an old movie theatre. You will also find two different brewpubs plus a chocolate factory.
The School Street Bistro is one of the areas hot spot dinning destinations. The bistro is open for Lunch and Dinner. Trisha Akiyoshi, the wife of Woodbridge by Mondavi chief winemaker David Akiyoshi, is the proprietor. While Trisha tends to overseeing the many details of the business, it is obvious that David has had a hand at creating the wine list.
The food is approachable, home-style Americana threaded with modern day flavors. It is as if Grandma’s recipes have been updated for the twenty first century!
Notable appetizers include the Crispy Calamari, dusted in cornmeal and topped with a Spicy Remoulde Sauce, Barbeque Shrimp with Blue Cheese Cold Slaw and Red Onion. Entrees include fish, steak or chops. Signature plates include Thai BBQ’D Chicken Breast, Bacon Wrapped Meatloaf and Penne Pasta with Grilled Chicken, Baby Spinach, Portobello’s and Laura Chenel Chevre Sauce. Desert is also not to be overlooked, because it is “Diet Free!” Try the Molten Chocolate Cupcake paired a Warre’s Colheita Tawny Port.
The wine list is delightful as well as intriguing. House wines are not surprisingly Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi ($4.25 glass/$15 bottle). School Street offers 12 different wines by the glass, with a unique roster of handpicked selections from Lodi, Sonoma as well as Spain and Germany.
The bottle list is fully supportive of the region and well categorized. My favorite section is last, “Wines For The Adventurous”. This contains totally off the wall picks from around the world. There’s a Gruner Veltliner from Austria, Viognier from Vin de Pays D’Oc, Albarino from Spain and two delicious wines from Greece of all places! If a winemaker had a restaurant, this would be it!
While Lodi is growing massive amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Zinfandel, a number of famous and not so famous grapes are also being grown.
Delicato’s Clay Station Vineyards focuses on grape varieties that have rarely been tried before in Lodi – Viognier and Syrah (grapes of Southern France) Malbec (from Bordeaux), Pinot Grigio (Italy’s premier white varietal) and Petite Sirah (California’s own version of a Mediterranean varietal.)
Vino Con Brio Winery is one of only a handful of US wineries that produce Pinotage wine, a red grape that is as popular in South Africa as Zin is in Lodi. Known as a difficult grape to cultivate, good Pinotage has been said to have the elegance of Burgundy, combined with the rich flavors of Rhone.
During recent years, a good percentage of growers have replanted sections of the vineyards in attempt to follow consumers changing taste buds. Mike Matson, co-proprietor of Vino Con Brio Vineyards and Winery predicts that while Zinfandel will always be Lodi’s number one grape, Syrah, Tempranillo and Sauvignon Blanc are bound to be big grapes for Lodi by the end of this decade.
With such a quaint environment, delicious wines and restaurants, Lodi has a lot to offer for anyone seeking a quality wine country experience. My only question is how long will Lodi stay like it is today?
When I asked Mike Matson’s wife, Renae if she was worried that Lodi may eventually become as commercial as Napa, she commented, “No way! Lodi is a real town with real people. We grow the grapes and make the wine. If anything, Lodi may evolve to be more like Alexander Valley ten years from now”.
Gregory T. Meath, an Attorney, vineyard owner and long time Lodi resident says that “ pressure from real estate developers and large retail concerns have put much of the land around Lodi and Stockton on the list for future development. Real Estate prices in San Joaquin County are still rising, thanks to a continual influx of people who cannot afford pricier Bay Area cities.
While many locals are concerned that Lodi wines and wineries may eventually get caught up in a more upscale climate like Napa, the real danger is that much of the vineyards that produce our quality fruit will be paved over by housing and retail developments. Additionally the type of development that has been typically seen in our region (large suburban housing developments with adjunct Big Box stores, national retailers and fast food chains) are not good neighbors to wineries and not really an appealing setting”.
No one can predict the future. The best advice that I can offer is to give Lodi Wine Country a try. And if you are planning to visit Napa, why not build in a few days to explore Lodi? It’s less than 90 minutes away. You won’t be disappointed, because after all Lodi is the quiet Napa!
CJD
Resources:
Lodi Winegrape Commission
Lodi Wine & Visitor Center
2545 W. Turner Rd.
Lodi, CA 95242
Tel. 209 367-4727
Open Daily: 10:00am – 5:00 pm
www.lodiwinwine.com
Lodging & Dining:
*Amorosa Inn & Gardens
7889 East Harney La.
Lodi, CA 95240
Tel. 209 368-5658
www.amorosainn.com
*(B&B and catered events only)
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